Tuesday, February 03, 2009

How to re-line a leather jacket

So my dear hubby's jacket lining was shot. The final straw was not the hole in the pocket but the hole in the lining under the pocket so everything just fell right through. So being a sewer I had to fix it and well I do have this great industrial sewing machine. And I have to say it was easier then I thought it would be - not super fun or anything but it only took me 2 days to complete once I started.

So here's how I did it.
To figure out how much fabric you'll need measure the length of the jacket and add the length of the sleeve - if the jacket is fairly wide then do jacket length doubled.

1. Cut out the old lining and pockets (if they also need fixing). Cut along the seams so each piece is separate - keep one sleeve and the front together for sewing reference.
2. Press the lining so it's flat as this will be your pattern. Pin on to the new fabric - to figure out the grain pull on each end of the fabric to find where it has the least give (if you pull on the bias it stretches so on grain it doesn't).
3. Cut out adding seam allowance if you have cut it off when removing from jacket.
4. I had some inside pockets in the jacket so I removed them from the old lining so I could sew into the new lining. To sew the welt pocket back in - measure the openning length and cut out with a V on either end like photo. Use the long ends of the cut as seam allowance - sew long ends first, then sew the ends to the Vs. Top stitch around the openning.

5. I put a piece of fusable interfacing on the back of where the inside pockets were going to reinforce the lining.
6. Sew in new pockets - you will use a tight weave fabric for the pockets - stronger than lining. I used a heavy muslin and added some interfacing to the bottom of the pocket to make it stronger.
7. Sew the lining together but leave an openning in one sleeve or the side seam so once it's sewn to the jacket you can flip it right side out.
8. Sew the lining around the edges first, right sides together - use paper clips to hold in place (since pins don't work or will leave holes)
9. Then sew the bottom and then the sleeves.
10. The sleeves can be tricky, I always seem to mess them up. Flip the jacket so the lining is on the inside and push the lining sleeves in place. Then grab with your fingers the seam of the lining and the jacket on the seam allowance of where it will be sewn - put a bulldog clip there to hold it in place. Now flip the jacket back and pull out the sleeve and sew around. If you don't do this there's a good chance the lining will be twisted (which is what happened to me) or the lining will be on the outside on inside the sleeve. Repeat with the 2nd arm.
11. Flip jacket right side out.
12. Inside this jacket there were piece of fabric cut that held the lining in place on the jacket - if you had these then leave them in and now re-sew them to the lining.
13. Sew the openning closed - just turn the seam allowance in and either machine sew or hand sew if you want.
14. Done - now let's hope I don't have to do that again.


The Valliers said...

Wow that's awfully complicated!
Not for the faint at heart ... or sewingly-challenged ... or less-than-zen really.

Vone said...

It's defintely not your first sewing project but it wasn't such a pain in the ass that I wouldn't do it again.

sandy said...

Thank you so much....I am in the have made the pattern stage in replacing the lining of a large heavy leather jacket. The one mistake that I made is taking all of the lining out....I can certainly see the value of leaving half for a pattern. Your hard work has made it easier for me --- hopefully I will be able to finish this project tomorrow.....then call the person to come and get it...Praise the Lord for people like yourself who are willing to share..,.....sandy

Vone said...

Glad I could help Sandy. I've since made that same jacket into a computer bag for my husband. Nothing goes to waste here :)

Anonymous said...

Since I know nobody that sews........ I have a Beautiful black heavy leather Jacket from Jacobsons that's 25 yrs old. Its a must to reline, not only because of shredding, I've realized it has odor, from yrs of Dog walking. What store would you recommend to tackle this chore? Help on this would b greatly appreciated! I couldn't throw it out, I've never seen another one as nice. Every winter season people compliment this Bomber Jacket.

Vone said...

Not sure where you live but most shops that do alterations can do relining - it will probably cost $65 or more.
Good luck on saving your jacket.


Leather Coats said...

nice post love reading it